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2/9/2002
Finished fitting the washer hose. Started fine tuning the indicator blocks to fit.
3/9/2002
Finished shaping the indicator blocks. A paper template was cut to
work out how much of the light stuck through the back of the blocks,
and this was then marked onto the bodywork.
4/9/2002
Drilled and filed out both indicator holes. Trimmed the rubber backs
to match the light blocks and cut a hole in the middle for the back of
the light.
5/9/2002
Marked and drilled pilot holes for the self tappers which will be used
to attach the lights to the 7 rear wooden blocks. As for the rear
lights, new mounting holes were drilled in the front lights which are
a bit further out from the centre.
6/9/2002
Drilled pilot holes in the front light blocks, then marked and drilled
mounting holes for the blocks in the bodywork. Matching holes were cut
in the rubber backs, and the pilot screw holes were marked and drilled
in the lhs block.
8/9/2002
The blanking pipe was moved from the rhs petrol tank to the lhs one,
and I started cutting up some thick rubber sheet to go onto the front
face of the tanks to protect them from stones etc.
9/9/2002
Finished off cutting the petrol tank rubber and tried to figure out
how to protect the sender and wires to it. The problem is that as
these stick out, and extra cover is needed to protect them, and there
is no particularly easy way to do it. The best method I could think of
was a large square of rubber which is cable tied to holes in the main
bit of rubber over the top of the sender, so that it is removeable is
I need access to the sender for any reason.
11/9/2002
Marked and drilled screw pilot holes in the rhs indicator block for
mounting onto the body.
Counted up what I hope will be all nuts, bolts and washers needed for the whole car, counted up what I have left, and worked out how many more I need to buy.
12/9/2002
Marked and drilled the screw holes in the grp for the 6 rear light
blocks, and then marked and drilled the pilot holes in the blocks. The
scres are a little bit longer than the wood and grp, so will need the
end trimming a bit.
13/9/2002
Marked and drilled screw holes in grp for fog light and the pilot
holes in the mounting block. Extra pilot holes were added to the grp
for the 6 rear light mounting screws, as they are just long enough to
stick through the blocks.
15/9/2002
Yet another trip to the Donington show. Picked up a pair of small E
marked rear reflectors with thick rubber edging which have no sharp
edges at all, a key operated lock which will hopefully be used as a
boot release (as the bar that turns is held on with a bolt so can be
replaced with something to attach the release cables to), and
Paul Toyne's redundant static
3-point seatbelts now that he's fitted 4-point harnesses.
16/9/2002
Worked out the size and position of the rubber flap to protect the
fuel sender, and cut out a bit of rubber to match. Small holes were
then cut along the top edge and it was cable tied in position to the
main bit of rubber. The other edges won't be tied in position until
everything has been fitted.
17/9/2002
Had a look at the key lock for the boot release, and it seems like I
managed to pick the only one where the bolt which holds the lock bar
in place has been put in cross threaded at an odd angle... Fiddled
with it for a while, and managed to get it back into the original
thread, so at least I should be able to get it bolted down fairly
tight now. I then tried to work out where it could be mounted, and how
the cables could be routed to the boot catches. With the seat in
place, there isn't much of the rear bulkhead that is free, when the
space taken up by the fuel pump and regulator are removed. The most
likely place seems to be the bit above the main rear chassis rail,
just under the bit of bodywork between the roll hoops, but this will
be a bit awkward to get to.
Finished off the rubber cover for the fuel sender - cut the holes and fitted the cable ties which can be properly tied up once its been stuck onto the tank and the sender wires connected.
18/9/2002
Played around with the carpet templates again. This time I rolled out
the black carpet and laid the full-size templates out on it. Decided
where everything is going to go, and marked the positions of the two
MDF floor panels.
19/9/2002
I decided to have a go at fitting the header tank. Something that I'd
only just realised was that the main hose connection on it is much
bigger than the 16mm hose - the full external diameter including the
lip on the end is about 22mm. So, it wasn't a case of just slipping
the hose on. I tried a bit of washing up liquid, but that wasn't quite
enough, so out with the hot air gun to soften the pipe and bit, and I
eventually managed to get it on and clipped in place.
As the hose from the tank runs fairly close to the two heater hoses, a thick bit of rubber was cable tied to each of the hoses just in case they end up rubbing.
24/9/2002
Decided to fit the boot release just to the left of the driver's seat,
just under the bodywork. The cable outers needed for each catch were
then measured, and the hole was drilled and filed out to the right
shape in the alloy.
25/9/2002
Measured up the amount of polystyrene needed to cover the floor and
pad out around the chassis rails so that the carpet around the seat
can be flat. It will also be used under the MDF footwell panels to
hopefully spread the load when standing on it.
Made a start on a bit of shaped metal to attach to the lock which will pull the cables to each catch. A suitable bit of fairly thin steel was found (part of the Sierra brake servo casing), and then cut and bent to shape. Its thin enough to be shaped easily, but shouldn't bend as the forces on it won't be that much, especially as the cables will be fitted as close as possible to the barrel of the lock, as the cable only needs to move aroun 7mm to release the catches, and the lock rotates 180 degrees so there is more than enough movement. I also dug out some alloy angle which can be used as stops for the cable outers next to the lock. This whole lot will be fitted to some thin steel sheet, and then riveted to the alloy panel.
26/9/2002
Started hacking up the carpet. 2 bits of black were cut out for the
footwell MDF panels, and the rhs one was shaped to fit, with the
corners trimmed so that they could be folded over. Rather than use a
Stanley knife, the trusty tin snips did all the cutting relatively
easily, and there shouldn't be a problem with them going blunt.
27/9/2002
Further shaping of the metal on the end of the boot lock, and the hole
in the middle to attach to the lock was drilled and filed out to shape.
A backing plate for the lock was cut from a thin bit of galvanised steel, and a hole was drilled/filed in the middle for the body of the lock to fit through.
28/9/2002
Bought a few more bits that are needed - extra nuts, washers and
bolts, some polystyrene sheets, some bike brake cables and outers for
the boot release, and an alloy water bottle and cage to use as an oil
catch tank for the crankcase breather.
Started working out the positions of the cable stops next to the lock, which will be made from a short bit of alloy angle.
29/9/2002
Finished shaping the bit on the end of the lock, and the holes for the
cables were drilled.
Cable end stops were cut and drilled to go next to the lock, and mounting rivet holes for them were drilled in the thin steel backing plate and the alloy seat back panel.
The end stop for the lhs boot catch was made and fitted. Again, this is a bit of alloy angle riveted to the plate to the catch is fitted to. The cable needs to pull straight down on the catch arm, so the end stop is mounted on the lower edge. To keep the cable outer lined up properly, a bit of 5mm alloy was attached to the 3mm angle and drilled out to the size of the cable outer, so that the end is held in position. Most of the rhs end stop was made, but this has the added problem of being right next to the exhaust, so is a slightly different shape to keep it as far away from the exhaust as possible.
30/9/2002
More work on the rhs boot catch cable stop. The mounting holes onto
the main back plate were drilled, and from these the plate was trimmed
to give as much clearance as possible to the exhaust. The lower edge
of the stop was also trimmed to increase clearance. Then, the laminate
off the back of the plate was removed, so that it can be polished to
try and reflect the heat away.
Total hours this month -
32.0
Total build hours -
1377.5
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